Not quite full of prairie promise

Winnipeg has seen better days, about a century ago when the sky was the limit. We head up the Broadway, where the street cars used to run, and work our way over to Portage and Main, in the city centre. We are offered a free donut by some insurance folk in a random act of diet madness. We take coffee and WiFi at the library.
The Peg, like many other North American cities, has been ruined by one-way streets, four-lane race tracks designed to scare the bejesus out of pedestrians. Many historic buildings have met the wrecking ball and the town has a broken-toothed appearance. We just have time to duck into the streetcar museum, in a replica car, where we learn that the only survivor #396 is being restored. We return to the magnificent 1911 station on Main in time for free coffee and biscuits.

We head out west past Rivers, MB, and into the Qu'Appelle Valley. Soon we are passing the potash mines, a source of prosperity in Saskatchewan. We stop in Melville, SK, and I photograph an old Pontiac up a gantry at a bodyshop. Past endless sloughs we reach the CN Walker yard at Edmonton, AB, via Saskatoon and Ardrossan. We eventually reverse through this massive rail yard arriving at Edmonton VIA station at 05:17, followed by frühstück at 06:00. A large party of Germans is leaving the train here.
Edmonton has a miserable modern station in the suburbs, stuck between the City Centre airport and a grotty trading estate. Train travellers get no taste of the city, like in Ottawa. We depart not having spent a cent.
We repair to the dome car, heading west past numerous container trains with their Hanjin, Evergreen and Italia signs. We spot nodding donkeys pumping oil in the fields. The Grey Cup Special train, vinyl wrapped, is heading towards us. Our train now has a special observation car spliced in, not elevated but with a glass roof. We stick to the 1950s version. We reach the Pembina River gorge where the train pauses on the bridge. Passing large lakes to left and right we reach Edson, AB, a hardscrabble town with railyards, timber and fracking supplies for gas. Another whistle stop at Hinton and we reach Jasper, AB, in the Rockies shortly after 1:00 p.m. We are glad to detrain after three days of rock 'n roll.

The Canadian to the Pacific

Winnipeg, Sep 13: Depart Union Station Toronto, on time, aboard “The Canadian” VIA train, after TTC subway WAFTI (We Apologise For The Incovenience). We ride the new rail cars on the Yonge, University, Spadina subway line. After about half an hour the train reverses. “We are V-ing out. They took up the tracks ahead, sold off the land.” What do the many Germans onboard think of this? We are riding a slow train with authentic 1950’s ambiance. At Union Station you feel like you are stepping back into the past, as the station is forever a work-in-progress, refurbishments never quite finished, and the stainless steel railcars remind you of those National Geographic advertisements from childhood days.
“The train then turns north and travels on the Newmarket Subdivision until mile 13. There it turns down what is known as a wye, permitting the train to travel east on the York Subdivision before reaching the Bala Subdivision at mile 16. The train then turns northward.” Canadian Rail Travel Guide, Daryl T. Adair.
We pass Parry Sound and Sudbury Junction in darkness. Next morning for breakfast we are at Capreol, mostly stationary, with the CN freight yard on our right. Cheese & Spinach omelet for Annette. The fresh oranges are cut the wrong way! The train has five observation cars with triple-header diesel, riding along in the start of the fall colours. A Danish couple share our breakfast table, conversation is somewhat limited.
Folks from Fort Erie are disgusted with the Liberal government: “I’m a Liberal but they’ve done everything wrong!”. They have shut hospital, schools etc. The horse race track is closing costing 1200 jobs. There are hopes of a NASCAR track to boost the local economy, but the planning process is interminable. Tax in New York state, across the border, is driving people away to Florida. At least there is cheap housing in Fort Erie. We spot a Quaking Aspen trackside.
We are rolling through endless trees, forests, rocks, muskeg, rivers and cabins in the fall sunshine. There are regular stops for freight trains with double-stacked container cars. Ontario is living up to its name – “Land of sparkling waters.” I spot a large black bear ambling along trackside.
We stop at Hornepayne, ON, for a stroll and photo opportunity, in the afternoon sunshine. There is a large derelict station building which speaks of former glory.
Now at Winnipeg after 06:30 breakfast, waiting for the station to open, so we can take a quick look at The Peg. I am constantly thinking of poor George Ernest Willmett.

Touring the coffee shops of Hogtown

The Mrs has taken to the Brompton bicycle well and we’ve been out twice this week, once to Queens Quay, about 12 miles, coffee outdoors by the boats. Locally doing the weekly shop with both bags deployed, about 3 miles, coffee at the Good Neighbour on Annette Street.
Pic by RLT.

Dream combination for a great day out

Can you fit two Brompton bicycles in the early version of the smart car? Answer: yes! We drove to the Caledon Trailway for a 12-mile round trip cycle ride, proving that minimal motoring and folding bicycles make for a great day out.

After a thorough clean the new, old, red 2000 Brompton was ready for a first proper excursion in Canada. We started by taking coffee and fried egg sandwich at the Trailside Bistro, Caledon East. We then headed west towards Inglewood, along the old railroad bed. Parts of the trail reminded me of the Cuckoo Trail in Sussex - there can't be many Brompton bicycles that have been on both trails. This was ideal cycling on a hot day as much of the trail is shaded by woods. The surface is dressed with crushed limestone - just about good enough for the Bromptons to cope.

We bought an ice cream at the General Store in Inglewood, our turning point. We had visited here before when riding the Forks of the Credit railroad. The more sporty cyclists were missing out on the wildlife. I stopped quietly to observe some birdlets, which I think were kinglets. We were back home by 14:00 after a pitstop at Bulk Barn for trail mix and Garibaldi biscuits.
More tours are in prospect as the potential of the smart/Brompton combo dawns.
Pics by RLT.

Brompton unboxed

I unpacked the red 2000 Brompton 5-spd for a short run with Annette this morning. I brought the bike back with me from the UK after the recent ride in France. Annette is pleased that we are now a two-Brompton family. We ride up to Creme Fraiche, a new neighbourhood coffee shop and treateria, appropriately on Annette Street.

The bike only needs some TLC. I am pleased to note there are Schwalbe tubes in the Brompton-brand tyres – I think fitted for my less than 100-mile tour in France in 2008 which took us to Gacé. See PunchBuggy Passim.

Over the last two days I have ridden 12 miles on my normal run to Queens Quay and back (hot), 8 miles back from smart dealer service on Dundas St East (damn hot), on the yellow Brompton.
I think the two Bromptons will go in the back of the smart car.
Pics by RLT.

To and from Dixieland

Overnight at Franklin, TN, and next morning to Dotson's, 99 East Main St, for breakfast. The grits are a bit watery, but they are forgiven for offering sliced beefsteak tomato as a side dish. Veggies are hard to find on the road. The cafe walls are covered with pictures of country musicians, notably the Judds and Kathy Mattea. We head for the Lane Motor Museum, 702 Murfreesboro Pike, Nashville - $7 a head. This place warrants a second visit - a haven for European cars in an unlikely spot.

We head north into Kentucky for our second visit this year, passing the railway museum at New Haven, a stop in the spring, on the road to Bardstown. We check out Frankfort, but the town is confusing with roadworks and diversions, so we carry on to Lexington, a home to horse-racing, pausing at Versailles for diesel. We stop at the Holiday Inn Express and dine at the DQ (Dairy Queen).
Next morning eastbound in the rain we stop at Olive Hill, KY, for the post office, where Railway Street is much boarded up. This is not postcard country. We reach Huntington, WV, named for Collis Potter Huntington of the C&O, close to the Ohio river. The railroad station has been unsympathetically restored and the ALCO #10 engine is left out in the weather, a rotting national monument. Still worth a visit.
We take a salad lunch at the River & Rail Bakery, snapping up the last two Snickerdoodle cookies. We press on for Charleston in a monsoon, resolving to spend the rest of the day indoors at the WV archives, looking for distant relatives of Mad Jack Fuller. Next morning we search for the Fuller and Kries family graves in the Mount Olivet cemetery, on top of a hill.
We head northeast stopping for diesel at Clendenin, WV, where the customers are straight from Central Casting. We are in oil and gas country. A stop at Walmart for supplies was followed by a roadside picnic. We crossed the Mason-Dixon line to Morrisville, PA, overnighting at Waynesburg, PA, close to the Marcellus shale gas field. Motel rooms are hard to find.
We drive into Pittsburgh, PA, following the GPS to Bicycle Heaven, in an industrial estate, mostly featuring Schwinn krate bikes. The NOS parts are priced for restorers only. We take the backroads to Jamestown, NY, in time to visit the Lucille Ball-Desi Arnaz Center late afternoon. The prerecorded shows were filmed by Desilu in front of a live audience; taping them enabled the bonanza of reruns that has kept Lucy front and centre down the decades.
On our tour we have driven over hundreds of miles of freshly-layed tarmacadam - if resurfacing roads leads to economic salvation then surely America is on the way back. But I am not so sure.
Just when you have despaired of North American road engineers, with their endless stop signs and stoplights, you reach Hamburg, NY, which features roundabouts and bike lanes, looking the epitome of modernity. You could be in Holland. Even dear old Buffalo, NY, has streetcars. Across the Peace Bridge and we have Toronto in our sights.
Pics by RLT.

Elvis and Tammy

July 21: Up early Saturday morning to Tunnel Hill, GA, which featured in the Great Locomotive Chase. The hooter of a northbound freight is heard long before the CSX double-header comes into view. We head into Chattanooga to ride the Tennessee Valley Railroad through Missionary Ridge Tunnel, quite the best short rail excursion anywhere. The new VW factory is nearby and the Passat is being shipped by rail.
Heading west from Tennessee and Georgia into Alabama we stop at the Fame recording studios in Muscle Shoals. Unfortunately, tours can only be arranged in advance and there's nobody there to help. After a quick stop at a Frank Lloyd Wright house in Florence, we dip south and travel the Tammy Wynette Highway into Mississippi, to Tupelo, the birth place of Elvis Presley. Evidence of his (former) presence is everywhere from a lake named after him to a cardboard cut-out in the hotel lobby.
Sunday morning and it is very quiet at the Presley birthplace. The family's two-room home, with front-porch-swing, remains original (but is it on the original site?). A $4 million museum/auditorium complex is under construction just behind. It is slated to open in August to commemorate the 35th anniversary of his death. On display is a 1939 Plymouth, similar to that which took the Presley family to Memphis.

We meet a friendly couple from Wales - turns out he is a teacher and she comes from the same part of the country as my late father. They join us in a visit to the Tupelo Car Museum, which boasts a complete set of Elvis movie posters and a car that he gave as a present to the Denver, CO, Chief of Police. This 1949 Allard caught my eye. Recommended.

We head northeast on the Natchez Trace, a tourist highway devoid of trucks, but with precious little of interest along the way. We stop at the gravesite of Meriwether Lewis, with its ongoing mystery as to cause of death.
Pics by RLT.