Checker survivor out west

Spotted this old Checker in the suburbs of Victoria, B.C. 
Pic by RLT.

Searching for Lake Annette

Jasper, Alberta, turns out to be a top place. After much needed freshening up we stroll around this mountain tourist town. Supper at the Jasper Pizza Place, next door to the Hotel Astoria, on the rooftop patio, in the company of a bunch of boisterous Aussies, turning the air blue. This town is not cheap but suffering somewhat in the recession. A shop assistant, where Annette bought some sunglasses, said: "last year was the worst ever." Apparently the high-rolling Yanks on $5,000 fishing trips aren't showing up and the Europeans are also staying home.
It was freezing overnight so we breakfast at Papa George's, next to the Hotel - special $6.95. We rent some cheap 'Suede' bicycles, at Jasper Source for Sports, $20 each for 4 hours, helmet, lock, map, provided. I also buy some new cycling gloves.
We set off down Highway 16 to find Lake Annette, across the Athabasca River. Superb scenery on quiet backroads in the company of elk and friendly Gray Jay or Whiskey Jack birds. We are constantly consulting the map, which also takes us to Lake Edith. While returning cars parked on the highway prove an obstacle as gawkers stop to stare at the wildlife. The trip of about twelve miles was glorious and seemed to be downhill all the way. Back for a snack lunch outdoors at the train station. An afternoon visit to the museum reveals that the Yellowhead Pass was named for a person.
While searching for a restaurant we see the Rocky Mountaineer train arriving from the west. We eventually take supper at Cassio's, 602 Connaught Drive, good Italian food, not cheap ($84 incl tip for two), but the wait staff are overwhelmed by the arrival of a grupo. An ordered coffee never materialises. We beat the retreat.
P.S. Jasper is at 3,800 feet, but we didn't experience any difficulty cycling.
Pic by Annette.

Not quite full of prairie promise

Winnipeg has seen better days, about a century ago when the sky was the limit. We head up the Broadway, where the street cars used to run, and work our way over to Portage and Main, in the city centre. We are offered a free donut by some insurance folk in a random act of diet madness. We take coffee and WiFi at the library.
The Peg, like many other North American cities, has been ruined by one-way streets, four-lane race tracks designed to scare the bejesus out of pedestrians. Many historic buildings have met the wrecking ball and the town has a broken-toothed appearance. We just have time to duck into the streetcar museum, in a replica car, where we learn that the only survivor #396 is being restored. We return to the magnificent 1911 station on Main in time for free coffee and biscuits.

We head out west past Rivers, MB, and into the Qu'Appelle Valley. Soon we are passing the potash mines, a source of prosperity in Saskatchewan. We stop in Melville, SK, and I photograph an old Pontiac up a gantry at a bodyshop. Past endless sloughs we reach the CN Walker yard at Edmonton, AB, via Saskatoon and Ardrossan. We eventually reverse through this massive rail yard arriving at Edmonton VIA station at 05:17, followed by frühstück at 06:00. A large party of Germans is leaving the train here.
Edmonton has a miserable modern station in the suburbs, stuck between the City Centre airport and a grotty trading estate. Train travellers get no taste of the city, like in Ottawa. We depart not having spent a cent.
We repair to the dome car, heading west past numerous container trains with their Hanjin, Evergreen and Italia signs. We spot nodding donkeys pumping oil in the fields. The Grey Cup Special train, vinyl wrapped, is heading towards us. Our train now has a special observation car spliced in, not elevated but with a glass roof. We stick to the 1950s version. We reach the Pembina River gorge where the train pauses on the bridge. Passing large lakes to left and right we reach Edson, AB, a hardscrabble town with railyards, timber and fracking supplies for gas. Another whistle stop at Hinton and we reach Jasper, AB, in the Rockies shortly after 1:00 p.m. We are glad to detrain after three days of rock 'n roll.

The Canadian to the Pacific

Winnipeg, Sep 13: Depart Union Station Toronto, on time, aboard “The Canadian” VIA train, after TTC subway WAFTI (We Apologise For The Incovenience). We ride the new rail cars on the Yonge, University, Spadina subway line. After about half an hour the train reverses. “We are V-ing out. They took up the tracks ahead, sold off the land.” What do the many Germans onboard think of this? We are riding a slow train with authentic 1950’s ambiance. At Union Station you feel like you are stepping back into the past, as the station is forever a work-in-progress, refurbishments never quite finished, and the stainless steel railcars remind you of those National Geographic advertisements from childhood days.
“The train then turns north and travels on the Newmarket Subdivision until mile 13. There it turns down what is known as a wye, permitting the train to travel east on the York Subdivision before reaching the Bala Subdivision at mile 16. The train then turns northward.” Canadian Rail Travel Guide, Daryl T. Adair.
We pass Parry Sound and Sudbury Junction in darkness. Next morning for breakfast we are at Capreol, mostly stationary, with the CN freight yard on our right. Cheese & Spinach omelet for Annette. The fresh oranges are cut the wrong way! The train has five observation cars with triple-header diesel, riding along in the start of the fall colours. A Danish couple share our breakfast table, conversation is somewhat limited.
Folks from Fort Erie are disgusted with the Liberal government: “I’m a Liberal but they’ve done everything wrong!”. They have shut hospital, schools etc. The horse race track is closing costing 1200 jobs. There are hopes of a NASCAR track to boost the local economy, but the planning process is interminable. Tax in New York state, across the border, is driving people away to Florida. At least there is cheap housing in Fort Erie. We spot a Quaking Aspen trackside.
We are rolling through endless trees, forests, rocks, muskeg, rivers and cabins in the fall sunshine. There are regular stops for freight trains with double-stacked container cars. Ontario is living up to its name – “Land of sparkling waters.” I spot a large black bear ambling along trackside.
We stop at Hornepayne, ON, for a stroll and photo opportunity, in the afternoon sunshine. There is a large derelict station building which speaks of former glory.
Now at Winnipeg after 06:30 breakfast, waiting for the station to open, so we can take a quick look at The Peg. I am constantly thinking of poor George Ernest Willmett.