Backroads and Blue Highways

July 16: The Deep South tour rolls on, leaving Pennsylvania behind and heading down the Delmarva peninsular, passing close to Wilmington, DE, an Amtrak stop at New Year. We are making for Georgetown, DE, an overnighter away from the coast, which saves dollars. We lodge at the Comfort Inn & Suites, 20530 DuPont Blvd, $105.95 incl tax. We find some bagels for supper in a strip mall at J&J Bagels, 28 Georgetown Plaza, Georgetown, DE.
In the morning we head for Lewes, DE, twinned with Lewes, East Sussex, England. It is a wonder anybody visits as there are no signs off the highway and, like its counterpart in England, the place is plagued with parking meters. Founded in 1631 by Dutchmen, and shortly after named Lewes, the town is a relative newcomer, but claims to be the first town in the first state of the US.
Friendly folk greeted us at the Chamber of Commerce and the Historical Society, who both do a fine job of promoting the town, once you find it and a place to park. We find some postcards at the latter, hard to come by in Lewes. I guess folk are sending less cards.
Next we hug the coast, driving through endless beach resorts crowded with holiday makers. It's hard to imagine a sharper contrast to the Amish farmland we left yesterday. We turn inland and off the highway to Pocomoke City, MD, which turns out to be a rewarding lunch spot by the Pocomoke River. The newly-opened Riverside Grill, 2 Riverside Drive, sells hamburger lunches at popular prices. I was amused by the nearby MAR-VA cinema.

We take the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel, an engineering marvel and an attraction all by itself. Opened in 1965, the toll costs $12 to cross the 20 mile stretch of bridges, man-made islands and two 1-mile tunnels. We detour via Elizabeth City where we fill up with diesel at $3.58 per gallon, rightly fearing worse on the Outer Banks. We learn that diesel will be cheaper in South Carolina where there is less tax. An overnight stop at The Travelodge, Kill Devil Hills, is a bit spendy at $160.88 incl tax. We meet up with Tracy next morning, a friend for over forty years, and go out for brunch. She has lived in KDH for many years and has many tales to tell about the local scene.
We leave the Outer Banks, spotting our first Piggly Wiggly at Plymouth, NC. We take diesel at Pinetops, NC, where I spot this Winnebago for sale. A snip at $2,000!

Avoiding the interstate we pass fields of tobacco, cotton, peanuts and other crops. A heavy driving day in the over 90 F heat we cover 260 miles before checking in to the Comfort Inn, 1957 Cedar Creek Road, Fayetteville, still in NC. This is the cheapest yet at $67.66 incl tax.

Next morning we stop to photograph a Renault Dauphine, atop a defunct gas station on Hwy 301. There was a time when Renault gave VW a run for their money in the US, but those days are long gone.
"South of the Border" billboards proliferate beside the highway as you drive towards South Carolina. A phoney Mexican attraction, right in the middle of nowhere, it has got more kitsch than Route 66. At Darlington Raceway we visit the small NASCAR musuem which has an impressive collection of stock car racing exhibits. This is stock car country as she used to be, a world away from the slick-suited businessmen of Daytona. The Darlington track, "Too tough to tame," is a holdout from the days of Rockingham and North Wilkesboro. We reach Augusta, GA, and crash out with takeout.
The highlight of the tour goes pear-shaped at Madison, GA, - see Punchbuggy Passim.
Skirting Atlanta we stop at Kennesaw, GA, to visit the Southern Museum of Civil War and Locomotive History, which features the story of the "General" locomotive. During the Civil War, "Andrews' Raiders" stole the General and a chase ensued north through the mountains toward Chattanooga. A different perspective is given here than that at the museum in Strasburg, PA, on the "Great Locomotive Chase." Another exhibit contains the only fully restored belt-driven locomotive assembly line in the US, which was rescued when the Glover Machine Works in Marietta, GA, was demolished.
We ride on to Dalton, GA, for a stop at the Holiday Inn Express, with supper next door at the Holiday Inn.
Pics by RLT.

Microcar Museum complete PITA

Bruce Weiner Microcar Museum: If you are planning a visit to this museum don't bother. These time-wasters are a complete PITA.
We planned a visit, calling in advance to check they would be open. We drove from Toronto in Canada to Madison, Georgia, for the high spot of our tour, to find they have shut for the weekend. A phone call to a member of staff meets with ignorance and evasiveness.
We called in at the Madison Visitor Centre in town, where they let us know that we were the latest in a long list of visitors unhappy with their treatment by this outfit. These people have more money than manners, treating folks with contempt. Bad luck to them.
I recommend if you want to see microcars at a proper museum go to the Lane Motor Museum in Nashville, Tennessee.

Steaming in Lancaster County

We overnight at Hershey Farm Restaurant and Motor Inn in Ronks, PA. After a splendid breakfast, with grits, we head for the Strasburg Rail Road and The Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania. These separate establishments are opposite each other. We ride the 09:30 Susquehanna behind Baldwin #90 for a 45 minute trip in Amish country.

Pics by RLT.

Turbo tames The Giant

Up early to Giants Despair hillclimb. First we nip into Wilkes-Barre to the post office and then off up Northampton Street to the races. We park near the startline, guided by Eddie Brooks in the house opposite. Everybody is welcoming and gracious.
We talk to John Hartmett, #232, who is driving a self-built car based on an Elden FF chassis, powered by two snowmobile engines and fitted with a sprint car wing. He says the biggest buzz is being asked for his autograph.

We then encounter Brit Nigel Cass in a 1982 Le Grand Formula Ford, bought as a rust heap. He is wearing a James Hunt tribute helmet and is a huge McLaren fan. A former autocrosser, he says "Hillclimbing is so addictive, it pulls you in." He is currently restoring a Lola T342 Formula Ford.
Steve Mestrow has a Merlyn Mk29 FF, imported to the US in 1977 and bought locally as a basket case. Some twenty years ago he raced a Merlyn Mk6 sports car fitted with an Alfa-Romeo engine, quick but unreliable.
Darryl Danko has the tyre warmers on his 1998 Lola T8900 Indycar, fitted with a turbocharged Buick V6, giving 900 bhp. A time of 40.01 sec looks good for best time on this power hill. The car is bottoming on the new tarmac - the driver says "there is no testing so you have to go with what you know." The Danko shop is at the top of the hill.

In the evening we spot a McLaren supercar in the unlikely setting of the parking lot of the American Legion Post 815. Allegedly owned by Honda for evaluation purposes. Some benchmark. We head into Wilkes-Barre and find the Thai Thai Restaurant at 41 South Main Street. Dinner for two inc tip $41, bring your own alcohol.

Next morning back at the track and I give an interview on WYLN 35 TV about hillclimbing. A downpour halts proceedings but soon the track is drying and this classic event unfolds. The McLaren is giving rides on the hill driven by Ted Klaus Junior. After another shower we pull out for Ronks, PA.

Hillclimbing in the Keystone state

A day in Corning, NY, with the smart car parked for the day. Cooked breakfast at Donna's on Market Street, with Pyrex collection and 95 cent coffee. We take the shuttle bus to the Corning Museum of Glass. We took in the Frank Carder collection, missed on a previous visit, plus the exhibition re the 1972 flood in the Rakow Research Library. Combination tickets $36.50 for two, includes art museum.
Hot Dog lunch at Jim's Texas Hot, followed by watching the Elmer Darling Duo singing country tunes in Centerway Square - "Happy Trails to You." Annette buys some Snickerdoodle cookies from an Amish gentleman at the Farmer's Market.
To the Rockwell Museum of Western Art:
"There was no where to go but everywhere, keep rolling under the western stars." - Jack Kerouac.
I never saw a backroad that I didn't want to go down.
In the evening we planned a quiet snack in the Steuben Bar at the Radisson. First the fire alarm went off and wouldn't stop, so the fire brigade turned out. Then a tiddly grandma to be, tipped gin and tonic all down herself and insisted on demonstrating how it was done. We retreated upstairs and a large dog started barking outside our door. Never go back.
Next morning depart 07:53 on Hwy 17 for Elmira, NY. Great road breakfast up at the counter at Lights Bakery & Coffee Shop, 211 West 2nd Street, $12.64 for two incl tax with bottomless coffee. South on Hwy 14 towards Canton crossing into Pennsylvania. Hwy 154 to Laporte, then via Nordmount and Sonestown. Take diesel at Endless Mountain Market, Muncy Valley - $3.79.9 per gallon. They have Goldenberg's peanut chews!

Arrive Wilkes-Barre at 12:50, after checking into the Comfort Inn we divert to Wegman's for grocery. They have grits, the shape of things to come. Reading The Times Leader, the local paper trailing Giants Despair hillclimb this weekend. Speed Channel is also advertising the hillclimb, admission free.
More here. Pic by Annette.

Come on Baby Drive South

The Deep South smart car tour is underway. We left Toronto at 07:15 on Tuesday heading for Fort Erie. After a pitstop to deliver a package in Oakville, we reached the Peace Bridge at 09:25. Our luck was in and we cleared customs in half an hour. Next stop Arcade, NY, after a short detour to climb the old Holland Hill Climb course. It is at this point that we discover that Annette's camera contains no memory card.
In Arcade we snack at Ma ma's Home Cooking, apple crisp $2 a piece, opposite the Arcade & Attica Railroad station. We do some research at the Arcade Free Library, which turns out to be a bust.
We then head for Hammondsport, NY, on the backroads, and the Glenn Curtiss Museum. This is a mixture of bicycles, motorbikes, cars, boats, aeroplanes and a delightful travel trailer. Recommended. We are tired by 17:00 and glad to find the comfortable Keuka Lakeside Inn in Hammondsport, $99.68 incl tax. We walk to The Union Block Italian Bistro for supper, good food with a shouty waitress.

We are up early and head for Watkins Glen and the Glen Mountain Bakery and Market for a light breakfast. There is a Corvair pickup - see Punchbuggy Passim - and an old Corvette parked outside. On to the International Motor Racing Research Center, a regular port of call. I subedit some copy for a newspaper back home.

We break for lunch at Jerlando's Pizza in town - there is enough left over for supper. We ride down to Corning, NY, by 16:00 where we are staying at the Radisson. We buy an 8gb SD card for $10.80 at Walgreens - deal. We stroll round the shops but are back in time to watch the Tour de France on TV. More here.
Pics by RLT & Annette.

Le Mans and beyond by Brompton

Small Wheels bicycle tour, June 2012

Mon 11 - Last minute repairs to the bikes at Future Cycles complete, we leave Lewes by train early evening. We were headed for the overnight ferry Portsmouth-Le Havre departing 23:00. Floods in the Chichester area divert us from Brighton via Clapham Junction, a shock for Jack who was looking forward to a break from commuting. We cycle from Portsmouth station to the ferry terminal checking in at 21:30. The catering arrangements put Portsmouth firmly in the craptown category: "The Carling is off" the barman announces triumphantly; chips but no fish; too late for pizza! Good old Blighty - rail chaos and slapdash service.
Tues 12 - A late night aboard ship is followed by an early start as we rig the bikes and head into the traffic in Le Havre, on the four Bromptons, in the wet. I was riding a 1999 short wheelbase 5-speed. The rest on more modern 6 speeds: Nigel on an 'M' model, Richard on a 'P' and Jack on an 'H'.
A driver with a swaying caravan needs admonishing. Nigel nearly takes a tumble hitting a wet drain cover but he wrenches the bike upright. We busk our way out of town finding cycle paths and then the D6015, D982 towards the Pont de Tarcarville. We are doing a steady 15-16 mph on the flat. We take our first pitstop at the Resto-Bar du Hode on the Route Falaises. The climb to the Tancarville sees me tailing off as I push the bike up the hill with the camions coming past. Great view of the Seine. We top 30mph on the descent, turning right and west on the D6178 into a headwind. We then turn left just short of the River Risle, on the D39 to Pont-Audemer. We are now in a rural delight where the pace slackens and the heavy traffic is left behind.

We take a restaurant lunch outdoors at Pont Audemer (pasta for me). We struggle to regain the D39-D137 to Pont-Authou. The derelict railway line adds interest. We pitstop for cherries short of town. Richard is suffering with his saddle, requiring constant careful adjustment. I am encountering a sagging seatpost. We then take the Voie Verte to Bec Hellouin, diverting to see the abbey. On to Bosrobert, at 49.2 miles, where a delightful chambre d'hôte run by a Swiss couple awaits. Some pear cider kicks off the celebration followed by a stroll in the garden. Supper consists of cream of courgette soup followed by Porc Normande in copious quantities. Wine and cheeseboard are demolished.

Marguerite & Roland Progin-Chopard, "Aux 2 étangs" 4, Route Moulin du Parc, 27800 Bosrobert Tel: 02 32 44 87 03
Wed 13 - 39.6 miles to night at Rugles. From Bosrobert we backtrack to Pont-Authou, then taking the road south to Brionne in the rain. We follow the River Risle on a marked cycle route, taking a right at the Viaduc du Bec. Before Beaumont-le-Roger we are passed by three serious cyclists as Jack, Nigel and Richard join the pursuit. Suddenly I am by myself as we head into town for a tea stop by the church. We purchase supplies at the Coccimarket.
Following a long descent we take a lunch stop at the mediaeval market hall in La ferrière-sur-Risle, buying more food at the boulangerie. Strawberries are most welcome. Back on the cycle route in hilly country even Nigel and Jack are off the bikes. We encounter soaking rain, diverting onto the D830 to Rugles, arriving at 15:00. The sun came out as we 'dried out' at a bar in town. Then to:

Mme Francoise Tobo Au jardin de Françoise 3 Rue G. Clemenceau 27250 RUGLES Tél: 02 32 24 76 24 Mob: 06 76 33 46 28 http://www.au-jardin-de-francoise.fr/

Our host is jolly and serves rice with the meal to stoke us cyclists. Some Ricard is also consumed.
Thurs 14 - 44.9 miles to Villaines-la-Carelle. Exit Rugles by a rural road following the Risle to L'Aigle for a tea stop in town, D3 to Moulins-la-Marche, D6 to Sainte-Scolasse-sur-Sarthe for picnic, we catch up with Nigel at Le-Mêle-sur-Sarthe, D4 to Blèves with stop for Perrier, Orangina and Pelforth, then long climb to Villaines-la-Carelle. We arrive in the village but the digs are still some way to go, down then up a long hill past a quarry. I'm fairly wasted on arrival in the farmyard but the B&B is run by a Dutchman and Heineken revives.
We take a truck to a Chinese restaurant in Mamers for late supper, where they are reluctant to serve noodles. We are joined by Helen, a Dutch person, who gives Jack a lift in her Toyota IQ. Home by taxi.

Bart & Gerda Huizinga Le Fay 72600 Villaines la Carelle Tel: 33-(0)243 97 73 40 GPS: 48.376334,0.297962
Fri 15 - 39.4 miles to Spay cabin. First off we take the truck to Villaines-la-Carelle, while Nigel climbs the hill on his Brompton. He arrives at the same time. We unload the bikes, exiting on the D202 to Vezot & Mont-Renault, turning right into a headwind on the D300 to Dangeul. After a tea stop we head for the valley of the Sarthe via Ballon, Montbizot, La Guierche, Neuville-sur-Sarthe and Coulaines, arriving at Le Mans. We take the tram to the circuit, for the short bike ride to Arnage and Spay. I take a short cut via the Mulsanne Straight to Hunaudières, through the chicane, arriving at Camping Houssay ahead of the pack. The Bar de la Gare beckons.

Sat 16 - From Spay to Club Motorsport at Guécélard by Brompton for tea and conversation with Pete Webber, beers at the bar in town followed by lunch at Le Peppino restaurant, an uncrowded joint on Le Mans weekend - recommended.
Sun 17 - Up early for the croissant run into town. From Spay to La Suze via Roézé-sur-Sarthe, relaxing with a beer at the Logis Saint Louis in the town square, and back. Andy joins us on the blue titanium Brompton. One way to Guécélard in the evening for supper, fold bike and return to Bar de la Gare with Andy in the Nissan March. Cheese platter and drinks.
Mon 18 - 43.8 miles to night at Tiercé, on the Sarthe. I manage a whole day in the saddle with no walking uphill. Depart Spay, D51 to Fillé, Roézé-sur-Sarthe, then left on the D23 to Malicorne-sur-Sarthe. We rendezvous with Andy at a teastop in the square. Back on the D23 we head for Durtal. Andy comes up alongside in the Nissan March while we are grinding out the miles. He scouts Durtal for us and guides us to Le Durestal restaurant for a pizza/pasta lunch, a bit spendy. We take the D68 to Tiercé among the trees, close by the River Sarthe but tantalisingly out of sight. On arrival we stop at an inhospitable bar opposite the Mairie, no cause to linger. Night stop with our genial host M de-Stoppani, who periodically plays the piano.

M de-Stoppani Chambre d'hôte et gîte rural La Drustière 49 rue de Porte-Bise 49125 Tiercé Tel: 02 41 37 07 73 Mobile: 06 98 99 14 24 http://www.chambre-hote-drustiere.com/ GPS: N 47° 37.468' W 0°28.146'
Tues 19 – 72.7 miles to Oudon, on the Loire. Trying to avoid the main roads we exit Tiercé on the D74 to Cheffes, then to Angers, via Cantenay Epinard and Avrillé, where we join the new tram route. A teastop at Angers and we divert into town for food shopping. We are guided by a cyclist to the south bank of the Loire at Les Ponts-de-Cé. We take a picnic by the river - real men do eat quiche.
We have strayed off our route and this proves to be the longest day. We climb to Rochefort-sur-Loire, stopping at the René Gasnier memorial, a pioneer aviator. I am hoping this is the last climb of the day - fat chance. Richard laughs as we blow through 50 miles and we are all in personal best territory.
We reach Oudon via Ancenis, but it is not over. A long climb to our digs flattens me. We then meet a Kiwi couple who are cycling from the Atlantic to Munich. 

M et Mme Gauthier Sous les Pommiers Pierre Blanche 44521 OUDON souslespommiers@orange.fr Tel : 09 71 46 84 21 mob : 06 03 06 14 96
Wed 20 - 49.6 miles to Frossay. We are supposed to take the 'Loire a velo' route to Nantes, but sundry navigational snafus mean it is lunchtime by the time we reach the city, via Mauves. The midges by the river are an additional hazard. We are at the point where fatigue is limiting bandwidth. A steak sandwich and a couple of tinnies help. We pass the Secodi-Perkins diesel works in Nantes. We see ‘La maison dans la Loire’ at Couëron, where we catch the free ferry across the river to Le Pellerin, a chance to put our feet up. More shopping for our evening meal. We follow the canal and stop to ask a lady the way to Frossay. On exiting the town I feel like I am hitting the wall with cramp, so take the last mile or two very gently. The delightful chateau was a hospital during WW2, in the St Nazaire pocket. We have our own picnic indoors, then the patron invites us for a digestif in the cave below. 

Chateau de la Rousseliere 44320 FROSSAY Tel: 02 40 39 79 59
Thurs 21 – A short morning hop of 17 miles to St Brevin-les-Pins on the Atlantic, via Saint-Viaud where we shelter from the rain. The boys duck into a supermarket on the outskirts of town and I miss them, rolling into the centre of St Brevin, taking tea at a cafe in the square. The toeclips have come into their own in the wet weather. I am sorry that the ride is all over. Nigel and Richard battle across the bridge to St Nazaire in the rain while Jack and I, reunited, catch the bus over the Loire, the driver dropping us near the hotel in Trignac. Fare two Euros. After lunch at Flunch we all take a taxi to the U-boat pens in town. We sample the bars and take supper at a Moroccan Restaurant.

IBIS Hotel, St Nazaire Trignac, 5 rue de la Fontaine Au Brun 44570 TRIGNAC Tel : 02 40 90 39 39 GPS : N4718’ 0.48 » W2 12’ 31.75”
Fri 22 - We cycle to St Nazaire station, which is rundown and grubby, not consistent with the TGV image. I buy a copy of L'Equipe. We take the first class train to Paris Montparnasse: 10.51 from St Nazaire, arrive Paris Montparnasse 13.45. We ride across Paris to the Gare du Nord, taking a beer nearby while avoiding panhandlers, pickpockets and pimps. 
Delayed 16.13 Paris Nord, arrive London St Pancras 17.36. London has its own special form of unpleasantness and we are glad to catch the train south with our possessions intact.

Plus Points: Rain (little sunburn), collaborative cycling, long distance cycling, reliable Brompton bikes, Chambre D'Hotes, SNCF.

Downsides: Rain, iffy navigation (exploit height bank), variable state of 'Loire a velo' route (at best a work-in-progress), British railways, Portsmouth Ferry terminal, security scare at Gare du Nord, London.

Learning points: Feed before problems, try isotonic drinks (St Yorre, Badoit have high mineral content), more training, avoid off-piste digs where possible, take less luggage (disposable clothing a success).

Overall: Well organised, good company, health benefits, personal best performances.