Autumn in Angoulême

Pic by RLT.
The cycling season is coming to an end here in Toronto. This summer I have covered some 550 miles on three tours. Here is the report of a trip to Angoulême, France in September.

Tues 16 Sept:
An early start. We caught the 05.23 train from Lewes to Ashford, changing at Eastbourne. The connecting service was running late, so we scramble at Ashford for the 07.28 Eurostar to Lille Europe, arriving at 09.30. The early departure is dictated by the limited Eurostar service from Ashford.
We ride the short distance to Lille Flandres station, coffee out front at Restaurant Le Napoléon in the Place de la Gare, immediately panhandled. There are too many beggars hanging round the station. France is doing everything it can to make life unpleasant for tourists.
11.06 Lille Flandres (1st class) to Nantes arrive 15.59. Cycle about 15 miles south, out through the suburbs of Nantes in rush hour traffic, using iPad navigation, a bit stop-start but better than getting lost. Overnight at Château-Thébaud at the winery. The owner had mixed up her days and wasn't expecting us, but all was quickly sorted out. Good digs.
We ride our bikes to beer and buffet supper at Au P'tit Sarment, "Le Bulay" R.N. 137, 44690 Château-Thébaud. Exceptional value for hungry cyclists. Three courses for three people, Euro 40 including drinks. Back at the Cave, on the farm, we are gargling two more bottles of wine, Muscadet and Rose from the fridge.

Weds 17th
Cycle 54 miles. We set off at 09:00. Snacks at St Martin des Noyer, drinks at Bournezeau.
This is the deep end. I am not sleeping (jetlag) or feeding well, it is blazing hot (86 Fahrenheit), and the camions are getting closer as we tackle a long switchback sector on a main road. I arrive exhausted. My companions think I'm faking it. Despite all difficulties I am on my best cycling form.
Overnight at Sainte Hermine, Vendée, in an old chambres d'hôtes with a Citroën 2CV parked in the yard. We have a five room suite at Euro 125 for three.
After lying prostrate we walk out in the town which appears to be closed. We retrace our steps to the main road. Luckily we blunder into Le Minage, 17 Route de la Rochelle, 85210 Sainte-Hermine. They are not yet open so we take a beer in a nearby bar, Au Père La Victoire, in the Place Clemenceau. The supper is quite upmarket, considering the setting, and a proper treat commencing with Kir Royal and seafood starter.

Thurs 18th
Cycle 58 miles. After breakfast in our suite, which is brought on a tray, we set off through the Vendée. We are following the Michelin cycle route, which in places is more suitable for mountain bikes. I am happier back on the blacktop. The first two hours is crucial, as a good launch phase sets you up for the remaining ride. This is windy country with windmills everywhere. Arrive at Mouzeuil-Saint-Martin, Pays de la Loire, on the D104, where we stop at the boulangerie, opposite the Mairie. Exit D68 for Le Langon.
On to the linear village of Vix, which seems to go on forever. Gathering supplies at a pâtisserie we lunch at the bus stop. Then across the ancient canal and on to the Sèvre Niortaise river, which we follow for a while before getting disoriented. We drift south-west to Courçon, where we have a pitstop by the church, then a supermarket stop at Intermarché, Rue de la Distillerie, Mauzé-sur-le-Mignon. Try finding a cold drink in a French supermarket!
Overnight at Vergne in a cheap motel, where we have an inclusive stopover deal with a meal at the Relais Tout Y Faut, out front with the truckers. Overall good. Not sure about the S&M club in back.
A great day in the saddle.

Fri 19th
Cycle 50 miles. News that Scotland voted No.
We make a flying start, teamworking our way south-east on the D115. We divert for a pitstop for Orangina and Perrier at Aulnay, outdoors in the town square, at the Bar Tabac Le Concorde. The weather turns wet at lunchtime as we snack in a bus shelter at Verdille, then exit D66. To Vouharte on the D737, where we meet the dreaded route barrée sign. Always a dilemna for cyclists. Do we divert or press on? We press on passing some road works with ease. We are continuing by the Charente. We want to stop for a drink, but nowhere presents itself. Eventually we stop at our old favourite Bar Le Donjon, Montignac.
On the last travelling day collaboration vanishes as I get tailed off heading uphill on the D737. A sign for Champniers leads to a navigational snafu, resulting in a long downhill on the D37 to the village of Argence, followed by an inevitable climb, all avoidable. (The hotel is not really in Champniers, which may not matter to motorists but is important to this cyclist.) I reach the Hotel Kyriad on a frontage road totally baffled thinking I'd finished. Ride on to Bouticycle shop and all becomes clear.
Arrive at Hotel F1 Angoulême Nord for 3 night stay. Meet up with Pete Webber who joins us for the weekend on his circa-2000 green Brompton bicycle. Beers in the bar at the adjacent Ibis Hotel. Supper at Restaurant La Boucherie, Les Grandes Chaumes, 16430 Champniers.

Sat 20th
Cycle 23 miles. Easy ride (without luggage) to Bric-à-Brac at Vindelle, on the Charente, where Richard snags a cheap road sign. Drinks at recently-opened Le P'tit Varsois, Vars, then D115 to Montignac for beer at the Bar le Donjon once more. We return via Rouhenac. The party splits at Courcon, after the first hill on the tour nobody could cycle up. I am secretly pleased. I lead the charge back to the hotel for a snooze, while the rest take further light refreshment at the Cafe de Pontouvre by the roundabout. Supper at Ristorante Pizzeria Anfiteatro, Zone des Avenauds, Gond Pontouvre.

Sun 21st
A day at the classic car races in Angoulême. We take a taxi into town, encountering a large display of Alpine cars, in the Place des Halles. Paddock tour. Lunch near the Champ de Mars: Latitude Pub, 10 Rue Raymond Poincaré, Angoulême. Indifferent service. The acid test is would you go back? Probably not. We finish at familiar watering hole: Café Bulle, 36 Rue de la Cloche Verte, 16000, Angoulême.

Mon 22nd
Ride into town, then idling at the outdoor station café. 12.27 Angoulême to Lille Europe (1st classs) arrive 16.38. 17.36 Lille Europe to Ashford arrive 17.37. Change for Lewes.

Total: 205 miles approx.

Plus Points: GPS navigation; weather (sometimes too much of a good thing); new gilet suitable, especially in the dark; health benefits (the gift that keeps on giving); no punctures; avoided Paris.

Downsides: Too many professional beggars trading on public stupidity.

Learning points: The Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre is definitely suitable for a Brompton, and desirable on long trips. Cut down on luggage even further.

Overall: Good tour in interesting part of France.

The treno tour - Part 3

Part Three: Italy
The contrast with Switzerland is jaw-dropping. We ride the scruffy local train to Monza (say it Mont-za) amid dereliction and decay. We flee the railway station where undesirables lurk. The first night in Italy, 31st July, we check-in at Locanda San Paolo, Piazza San Paolo 3, Monza, 20900, Italy, +39039325994.
Birthday supper outdoors in considerably warmer weather: Trattoria Caprese, Piazza Roma, 10. Chain restaurant. Overordered at Euro 48.80 for two.
Next morning transfer to: The Penthouse, Via Italia, 44 Monza, 20900, Italy, Tel: 393939119439. Good digs with self catering. Drop off luggage for two nights. Take the bus to Missaglia, meeting friend Rosita at the bus stop. After brief tour, by car to Montevecchia, climbing the 174 steps to the Shrine of our Lady of Mount Carmel, splendid walk and views, then delightful lunch and kind hospitality at Albergo Ristorante Maggioni. The bus goes via Arcore where Silvio Berlusconi has a house. However he was not using his bus pass when we visited and there was no sign of a bunga bunga party.
Luna Cafe, Via Italia, for breakfast, 3 x brioche, 2 x capucci, Euro 7.30, deal. To the station to buy our train tickets for Padua. Then walk to the bike rental location in the massive Royal Park, to tour the autodromo monza. Two bikes, two hours, Euro 12. The park is much run down in places, largely deserted early morning. We pick up beer cans and bin them. Fantastic views of the old banked motor racing circuit, which they are in the process of restoring. They raced on this track in Indy front-engined roadsters in the fifties - outrageous. Cycled round the paddock where there is a cheerful lack of security. At the bike hire place they recommend lunch outdoors at Cascina del Sole, in the park. Good service and value at Euro 30 for two, including tip.
Next day take local train to the magnificent Milan Centrale station, where we change for Padua, boarding the Trenitalia Frecciabianca. The train is five munutes late in arriving and we take a taxi to the hotel: Hotel Albergo Verdi, Via Dondi Dall'Orologio, 7 Padova, 35139 for four nights. Soon we are in "Piazzaworld" lunching in the Piazza Dei Signori, where a storm is brewing and the staff are hurrying to clear the outdoor tables.
This splendid country does grow on you despite beggars, hookers, con artists, etc. We have dodged any depradations so far. All transactions here are strictly cash - "My machine is not working - I do not know why." Gets a bit like a stuck record for the umpteenth time. The real economy here is probably twice the size of government figures. When you have a dysfunctional government you get on with life by other means. The Euro has done nothing but add to Italy's troubles, much industry being shuttered and emigration the chosen option for many.
Hereabouts is the land of the no-gears bicycle - shoppers and roadsters - all ages aboard and in all states of repair. Many derailleurs but hub gears virtually unknown. I did see a few remnants of Sachs and Sturmey Archer days, and the red local hire-scheme bikes had Shimano three speeds. Everybody on parade in the evenings - lights an unlikely optional extra. Electric bikes spotted including with Bosch drivetrain.
Visit to Botanical Gardens, founded 1545, part of the Università degli Studi di Padova. Wonderful oasis away from the crowds, contemplating scientific endeavour over such a sustained period. Spotted Physalis plant, which may explain the name of the charmless bar in Spay, France.
Early start for half-day trip to Venice, travelling by 07:21 train, a journey of about twenty miles. Walked to the Rialto Bridge, St Marks Square, Bridge of Sighs etc. We are amused by the sight of a gondolier glued to his mobile phone. By mid-morning everywhere is bedlam with waves of tourists in grupo tours. So many people overwhelming the place when they could visit Montevecchia in peace. By midday we can take no more and head for the station, taking the 12:05 to Padua.
Lunch at Cafè Il Padovano, Via Martiri della Libertà, 17, 35137 Padua. Sampled local Lugana wine. Supper at Osteria dei Fabbri, Via dei fabbri, Padua. Notable for black pasta. Annette says:

The orecchiette servite con code di gamberi e broccoli (ear-shaped pasta with shrimp and broccoli) and tagliolini neri serviti con vongole veraci e funghi porcini (black noodles with clams and mushrooms) are heavenly! Add excellent ambiance and service and you've got a meal to remember.

Our last full day is spent promenading and shopping. Pizza in the Piazza dei Signori followed by gelato. Also frequented Bar Caffe' Missaglia, Via Santa Lucia, 47 Padova.
Next day Busitalia from Padova to Venice Marco Polo Airport, Euro 8.50 x 2. Air Transat home.
Pleasing to see cultural exports on TV: Top Gear in German, Wheeler Dealers in Italian.

Purchases:
Coffee spoons x 12. Euro 2.50. The cheap variety that make french cafes irresistible. La Vaisselerie, 80 Boulevard Haussmann, Paris, Tel: 0145 22 32 47. Bodum bistro spoons (6 x 14cm Sfr 3.90; 6 x 20cm Sfr 4.90) Bodum 70th Anniversary book, gratis. Bodum Store Luzern, Weinmarkt 7, 6000 Luzern 5, Tel: 041 412 38 38. Bargain bin cycling vest in outlet store, 63 Sfr. Discounted 60%. Outlet Sport by Balmelli, Via Maderno 16, Lugano, Tel: 091 922 67 77. Bodum bistro coffee mug (Sfr 2.40, reduced from Sfr 4.90). Coop St Moritz Bellevue, Via dal Bagn 20, 7500 St. Moritz, Tel: 41 81 837 56 60. Duralex Lys Coupelle or Coppetta x 2, Total Euro 1.80. laRinascente, piazza giuseppe garibaldi, 35122, Padua, Tel: 39 049 8760166.